tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-68037276751554099592024-03-13T09:32:49.192-07:00Diary of an Eco RetrofitA home-owner's accountTinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.comBlogger50125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-25781791682910803522014-08-16T12:29:00.002-07:002014-08-16T12:29:45.574-07:00Nearly two years since the retrofit - what's it like?We've now lived through 2 winters in this house since the thermal improvements were completed. And as you might expect, the difference is massive.<br />
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Going from a 1950's house with no insulation whatsoever, to a refurbishment at around the Passive House refurb end of the scale represents a radical transformation in terms of comfort. We now experience a level of thermal comfort that we didn't even know existed!<br />
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During the first summer, the house warmed up nicely, so that by the beginning of our second winter after the refurb, the bricks were fully warmed. This meant that we needed no heating at all during October to keep the house at a steady 21 degrees C.<br />
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Gas use in the second winter was therefore even lower than in the first winter. We used 4440 kWh of gas in the year to July 2014, of which at least 1800 kWh we estimate to be for hot water use and at most 2640 kWh for heating. And that's to keep the living areas at a very comfortable 20-21 degrees C through the winter (and the bedrooms slightly cooler, as we prefer it).<br />
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We used the EnerPHit standard as a guide. Houses that achieve this standard should use no more than 25 kWh / m2 / yr for heating. In the last 12 months, we used 21 kWh / m2 / yr - so the house is performing as it was designed to do.<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-46467538495315335622013-12-21T12:58:00.003-08:002015-05-08T03:47:37.616-07:00A very EnerPHit Christmas?Now into our second heating season since the refurb, we are definitely reaping the benefits in terms of comfort. We have a house that is quick to heat up and slow to cool down (Hooray!)<br />
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Are we anywhere near our aspirational design target - EnerPHit?<br />
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The five little radiators (2 more than last winter) are easily enough to heat the house up quickly after a week away and the washing dries in no time. Dealing with children in the middle of the night is less of a rude awakening now the night-time temperature is over 18 degrees C rather than below 12 degrees C.<br />
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And it has been even more comfortable than November and December 2012, when we had just moved back in. Back then, the house had stood empty for a year and had just been replastered throughout - so a fair bit of of drying out and heating up was required. This year, the summer warmth held in the walls meant that no heating was needed in October, and we put the heating on in November more to keep the walls up to temperature rather than because anyone felt less than warm.<br />
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What about the energy use?<br />
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November 2010 gas use (heating plus hot water and cooking) was over 2600kWh for the month. November 2012 dropped to ~1000 kWh for the month (heating and hot water only - cooking now electric), and November 2013 came in at 475 kWh.<br />
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So in terms of space heating, we used 3 times more gas in the first November after the refurb compared with the second. Perhaps not surprising, but more significant than I had imagined.<br />
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And what about EnerPHit?<br />
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Taking total gas use for 2013 (well, 21st December 2012-13) and subtracting the hot water component gives us about 3400 kWh space heating for the year - or 27 kWh / m2 / yr for our 125m2 house.<br />
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(Using the typical method of measuring floor area, the house is 140m2, but for Passive House calculations a different method is used, hence the lower figure of 125m2).<br />
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So we are somewhere close to the EnerPHit target of 25 kWh / m2 / yr.<br />
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However, it must be said - we don't run at 21 degrees C day and night (we like the bedrooms at 18-19 degrees at night, and the downstairs at 20 degrees in the day). That said, the first few months of 2013 were colder than the average winter, and it was still our first heating season post-refurb.<br />
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And the building fabric? While the insulation and cold bridge detailing were built very much as per the spec, the air tightness is not below 1 ACH at 50 Pa at the moment. At the end of the build it stood at 1.08 ACH in spite of a very leaky door seal, subsequently resolved. However, 12 months of DIY have taken their toll and we now have some work to do fixing the leaks created by "him indoors"!<br />
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Even so, it's high on comfort and low on energy use. And it is very cozy at Christmas - having family and friends round is not only fun and sociable, but also keeps the house very toasty without any heating thanks to the increased occupancy!<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-63790810614085239722013-10-27T14:38:00.002-07:002013-10-27T14:44:47.873-07:00Autumn - it's getting colder outside but what about inside?As autumn progresses, we are watching the thermometer with interest to see how the house responds to the falling temperature outside.<br />
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During September (with no heating on) the thermometer fell gradually from 23 degrees C to 20.5 degrees C. And there it has remained without any fluctuation during the whole of October. I started to think there was something wrong with the thermometer so took the thermometer reading 22 degrees C in the attic and put it in the kitchen - where it continued to read 22 degrees C for some time (days / weeks).<br />
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As the house depends mainly on its occupants and our cooking / showers / use of electrical items etc. to keep it warm, we thought that going away for 6 days at the end of October would have a significant effect. But no, on opening the front door it was much as before. The second thermometer is reading 19 degrees C, and the first thermometer still says 20.5 degrees C. Either way, if the house needs no heating in October to stay at 20 degrees C give or take 1 degree, I'm happy with that!<br />
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The heat stored in the brickwork is acting like a storage heater and keeping the air temperature up at around 20 degrees C. At some point we will have to put the heating on to prevent the temperature from dropping below this - but when?<br />
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The other nice thing about coming home to this house is the air quality - we leave the ventilation system on a low setting so there is a constant trickle of fresh air coming in. When we get home after a holiday, it doesn't smell as if it has been shut up for a week. (Before the refurb, it was very noticeable on returning from holidays that the house had not been ventilated adequately while we were away.)<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-38145986295205493372013-08-17T13:04:00.001-07:002013-08-17T13:04:42.263-07:00Are super-insulated homes too hot in summer?It depends....<br />
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With various newspaper articles recently on the subject of well-insulated homes overheating in hot weather, I thought it was time to reflect on how my superinsulated home responds to high outside temperatures.</div>
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The short answer for my house is "no". We've had some very hot weather during July and August 2013 but inside the house I've not seen a thermometer show higher than 25 degrees C, and usually less than that.<br />
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This is not a big surprise. Passive House design means that overheating must be considered, and the temperature should generally remain below 25 degrees C.<br />
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The well-insulated roof and walls help to keep heat out of course, and we can add to this effect by closing curtains as the sun moves round the house if we wish. However, our secret weapon is the thermal mass - the solid brick walls, covered internally with a dense render before the plaster skim, soak up heat when the air temperature is high, and release it in the evening when the air cools.</div>
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We can maximise this effect in the evening by opening patio doors downstairs to bring cool air in, and opening the attic windows to allow warm air to rise and escape (drawing more cool air in). This leaves the house at a cooler temperature for the night and into the next day.<br />
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Even if we keep the windows shut to keep the hot air out, the ventilation system with heat recovery does bring warm air in from the outside. However, when outgoing air is cooler than the incoming air, the heat recovery unit will to help cool the air brought in from the outside until indoor and outside air reach the same temperature.<br />
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In contrast, many modern cavity wall insulated houses are not designed with overheating in mind. All sorts of elements can contribute to overheating. Large areas of glazing, particularly if in a sloping roof can allow excessive solar gain. Loft rooms are often not that well insulated, turning them into an oven on hot sunny days. Theoretically, the inner skin of brickwork could provide thermal mass to soak up the heat, but it is commonly of lightweight blockwork or is covered in plasterboard (which prevents heat from the air from being absorbed by the brickwork behind it).<br />
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So, as usual, the devil is in the detail. A lot can be done to reduce overheating even on a limited budget. Fancy automated external blinds may be the ideal, but careful use of curtains (e.g. leaving them shut before going out for the day) can make a significant difference. Likewise opening windows on the cooler side of the house / at cooler times of day is worth doing, with or without a ventilation system.<br />
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Climate scientists are predicting a greater frequency of heatwaves in future years, so it is worth keeping overheating in mind when buying or improving a home...</div>
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Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-18436022290995527692013-05-19T13:18:00.000-07:002013-05-19T13:18:00.746-07:00Warmest Winter in Years!This winter has seemed never-ending, but I have to say that braving the cold outside has been much more pleasant when not also having to brave the cold inside.<br />
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And now that it finally feels like spring, it is very comfortable indeed indoors. The heating has not been on at all for weeks, and the temperature sits at a balmy 20 degrees (+/-1). The sun comes in through the windows and the warmth stays with us for the evening and through to the next morning. The chill blast that awaited on emerging from the duvet is a thing of the past. It is most civilised.<br />
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Without draughts and cold spots, 20 degrees (or even 19) feels a whole lot warmer than it used to before the house was refurbished. I can remember sitting huddled in the warmest room at about 22 degrees and feeling just about ok until I moved. Now the whole house just seems to find its own temperature and it never feels cold.<br />
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My conclusion is that the Passivhaus methodology (for new build and refurbishment) definitely works. The house is behaving as it was designed to do in terms of comfort. Energy readings and temperature measurements so far back this up (but a year or so of further measurements will give a clearer picture).<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-55854607293685614802013-01-12T14:38:00.003-08:002013-01-17T13:10:50.130-08:00Thermal imaging gives the thumbs up!For the last few weeks, I've been waiting impatiently for cold weather! Why? For the thermal imaging....<br />
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When the temperature is cold outside and the house is warm on the inside, any heat escaping through gaps in the building fabric can be seen by a thermal imaging camera. This shows up as hot spots (when viewed from the outside) or as cold spots (when viewed from the inside).<br />
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David Hill of <a href="http://carbonlegacy.co.uk/" target="_blank">Carbon Legacy</a> visited with his thermal imaging camera and we went round the whole house looking for cold spots. We examined window reveals, door reveals and thresholds, wall-roof junctions, and every possible weak point we could think of.<br />
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To my huge relief, the results were very good.<br />
- The insulation of walls, floor and roofs is clearly doing its job.<br />
- Junctions between walls and roofs or walls and floors all looked pretty good.<br />
- The window reveals and window sills were my main area of worry, but they were all very respectable too - the worst showed about a 2 degree difference between the cold spot at the corner of the window sill and the adjacent wall, the others were all below 1 degree difference.<br />
- The windows themselves were very good (as you might expect of Green Building Store's <a href="http://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/page--ecopassiv-passivhaus-timber-windows-door.html" target="_blank">triple glazed windows with insulation within the frames</a> and Fakro's quadruple glazed roof-light).<br />
- Where the air tightness work around the front door has not been completed yet, this showed a few cold patches - no surprises there.<br />
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Getting such a good result depends on a number of factors, for example: good detailing by the architect (thank you Gil!), the right products (e.g. <a href="http://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/page--pro-clima-airtightness-products.html" target="_blank">pro-Clima tapes and membranes</a>), a good builder (McCane Construction), quantity and quality of external wall insulation (Westville using the Permarock system) and the watchful eye of the insulation and air-tightness champion (me).<br />
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Of course, the ultimate measure of success for a low energy home is the low energy bill! But first the final bits and pieces have to be completed and then I'll want to see 12 monthly readings for gas and electricity (to compare with the pre-refurbishment readings). However, the signs so far are promising... gas use in December 2012 was a quarter of what it was in December 2010, in spite of the fact that the floor area has increased from 95 to 140 m2.<br />
<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-47473552440606332892012-12-14T14:39:00.001-08:002012-12-14T14:41:59.935-08:00It's cold outside...... but fortunately seems to be ok on the inside even when the temperature drops to -5 on the outside.<br />
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Strange but true - at 19 degrees C, the house feels warm (whereas it felt much less comfortable at the same temperature before the insulation and draught-proofing).<br />
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The plaster is still drying out and the brickwork is still warming up after a year of exposure to the elements, so the gas boiler is working harder than it will need to next year, all other things being equal.<br />
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The 3 tiny radiators are not really enough to keep every room at 19 or 20 degrees C under these circumstances, but we are happy with bedrooms dropping to 17 or 18 degrees C at the coldest point in the night. (It beats the 8-12 degrees C that was the midwinter norm in 2010 and 2011).<br />
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The other striking difference for me is the complete absence of joint pain, which was a permanent feature for at least 4 months through previous winters. I had a hunch it was down to cold and damp in the house and I'm really delighted to experience such a spectacular difference this year. (Of course, for those who haven't got an extensive collection of injured joints, it won't make much difference).<br />
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The energy bills will also have a story to tell, but I don't have enough measurements yet (and there are further efficiency improvements to make anyway before the house reaches its "as designed" state).<br />
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One thing you do have to get used to is condensation or ice on the outside of the windows (because heat loss through the <a href="http://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/page--ecopassiv-passivhaus-timber-windows-door.html" target="_blank">triple glazing</a> is so low that the ice can still be found on the outside of the windows for hours - until the sun melts it off). I'm not complaining - so much nicer than having the ice on the inside as was the case for days on end in winter 2010 and 2011.<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-16497186031247509932012-11-06T09:34:00.001-08:002012-11-06T09:34:36.451-08:00Moving in!Finally, we have moved back in! There is still a fairly long list of things yet to be done (e.g. installing a kitchen) but great progress has been made in the plumbing department since moving in 2 weeks ago.<br />
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So what's it like? Thermally, it is fantastic - warm, comfortable, the temperature is stable, no hot and cold spots, no draughts. The thermometer sits around 19-20 degrees all the time. It is a completely different house from the one we moved out of a year ago.<br />
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We have 3 tiny radiators, which are currently on to help dry out the plaster, but we've had to turn some of them down or it gets too hot. So it looks as if the heating system is about right for the house. We'll know by the end of the winter if the system is adequate in really cold weather.<br />
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Since the MVHR was switched on, air quality has also been very pleasant (much better than having a window or two open, which did not promote air flow in every room).<br />
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It is still something of a DIY zone, but we are getting there. Not quite ready to commission the MVHR system and carry out the final air tightness test...Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-84822844031541257462012-08-21T05:18:00.000-07:002012-08-21T05:18:01.315-07:00Open house visits in the Nottingham areaThis house and other low energy new builds / refurbishments will open their doors to people who are interested during September.<br />
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For details, go to <a href="http://wbecohouses.blogspot.co.uk/">http://wbecohouses.co.uk/</a>Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-34537269788381323642012-08-20T12:26:00.000-07:002012-08-21T02:53:14.800-07:00Air tightness definitely heading in the right direction!Now that the attic roof and the extension roof have been "taped and membraned" to the hilt, we've had an air tightness test to see whether we are anywhere near the EnerPHit target of 1 ACH @ 50 Pa.<br />
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The average of the de-pressurisation and pressurisation (sucking air out and blowing air in) values came out at 1.078 ACH @ 50 Pa, which is certainly cause for optimism! We are extremely grateful to our merry band of Eco House Group helpers who came along and tracked down draughts during de-pressurisation, or went round with tape and sealant blocking up the draughts identified. While some draughts are easy to spot and solve, it is truly amazing how some draughts can be felt, but no obvious hole or fault in the taping can be seen.<br />
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In the days following the test there were some worrying moments when the plasterboard went on as this can stretch or puncture the membrane if it is a little tight in places (almost inevitable in a complex roof structure like this one). However, improvements elsewhere cancelled out any small issues which we could not detect behind the plasterboard, so we are still on track.<br />
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As long as the remaining refurbishment work results in a few improvements and no mistakes, we should be able to get below the magic figure of 1. But success is by no means guaranteed so we'll be waiting until the very end to find out if we have made it.
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For those more familiar with the other way of expressing air tightness (air permeability), Midland Energy Services has also provided that figure: 1.07 m<sup>3</sup>/h.m<sup>2 </sup>@ 50 Pa.<br />
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Air Permeability and Air Changes per Hour do not necessarily match, but in a medium sized house like this one, they can do. For a small flat or a large hotel, the two figures would be very different.<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-84654140962132744852012-07-20T13:53:00.001-07:002012-07-23T13:40:02.422-07:00Another little power station goes live in West BridgfordAlthough I've been somewhat preoccupied with air tightness of late, other things are happening. Today, the new PVs were hooked up to the electricity meter and we are now generating energy and feeding it to the grid. Now all we need is some sun....<br />
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Compared with all the other work we've had done, the 2 visits from the team at <a href="http://carbonlegacy.info/" target="_blank">Carbon Legacy</a> to install the PVs have been most straightforward. What is there to say? Day one and the panels appear on the roof, day two and the cables link to the inverter and from there to consumer unit and meter.<br />
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The amount of electricity which we hope the system will produce in a year should be a little over 3,000 kWh. This will hopefully equate to a significant proportion of our total annual energy use (electricity plus gas) once the low energy refurbishment is complete. (I'm expecting total energy use to be between 6,000 and 9,000 kWh a year - watch this space!)<br />
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For comparison, the original estimate for annual energy use in the "as bought" state (based on a SAP energy model) was 36,000 kWh. In fact, energy-saving habits meant that we only used about 24,000 kWh of gas + electricity in a year.<br />
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This is like a mini version of the UK's energy challenge. The Department of Energy and Climate Change anticipate that the UK could face energy shortages by 2015. Hence the interest in generating more renewable energy in one form or another. However, there's a very long way to go to meet ever-growing demand for energy, especially with certain older power stations reaching the end of their lives soon.<br />
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However, if homes, business etc. were very energy efficient and used MUCH LESS energy (through additional energy-saving habits, insulation, more efficient appliances and equipment, etc), then the scale of the challenge would be reduced - and the chance of power outages in 2015 would also be reduced.<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-15243778039659951722012-07-17T14:04:00.000-07:002012-07-17T14:04:42.006-07:00The gentle art of extreme air tightnessNow that we have a roof, windows and externally insulated walls, it is time to tackle the air tightness to make sure that this low energy refurb really does end up with low energy bills.<br />
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For this refurb, the air tightness layer is on the inside: the plaster on the brick walls, tapes around the windows, and a breather membrane across the rafters in the attic.<br />
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Today I was most fortunate to have 2 volunteers to help me with taping up the joins in the <a href="http://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/page--pro-clima-interior-membranes-options.html" target="_blank">Intello</a>. (Thank you Debbie and Elaine!)<br />
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">After a little trial and error, I think I have found a way round some of the more complicated details (with the help of the most </span><a href="http://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/page--pro-clima-airtightness-tapes-options.html" style="text-align: -webkit-auto;" target="_blank">flexible type of tape</a><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"> in my tool box).</span>
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<span style="background-color: white;">The moment of truth will be the air tightness test that will follow in a week or two. The preliminary test (before the plastering and the internal tapes and membranes) was respectable - better than the average new build. But once the internal air tightness barrier is in place, we are aiming for a value below 1 ACH at 50 pascals. Will we manage it? Place your bets now....</span><br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-38546629081059204812012-07-10T14:56:00.000-07:002012-07-10T14:56:20.843-07:00Cold bridge detailingUltra-low energy refurbs should come with a health warning - you need lots of stamina to keep plodding on!<br />
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The insulation has taken longer than anticipated. This is largely because of the "complicated bits" which arise when trying to achieve a refurb at the passive house end of the spectrum. </div>
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Installing a lesser thickness of insulation would normally be quicker and easier, but putting on 2 layers of boarding in most places and being extremely careful at junctions between wall and roof, window and wall, etc takes more time. </div>
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(The greater the insulation thickness, the more any "thin" areas matter - hence places like our eaves junction have taken a lot of effort to achieve what we hope will be a good result).<br />
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This week, the boarding is finished and the render coats are well under-way - the end is in sight!<br />
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Already, it feels pleasantly warm inside - even with some windows open and no heating system installed. Of course, it should be warm in the house in July - but it has been a rather cold July so far, and it is noticeable that the house is warmer than it was before the insulation went on.<br />
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<br /></div>Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-67030478819222841442012-07-08T07:12:00.001-07:002012-07-08T07:28:10.835-07:00The gas boiler arrives<span style="background-color: white;">After the recent post on gas boilers, Alan Clarke gave the following pointers relevant to our ultra low energy refurb...</span><br />
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<span style="color: #454545; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">With a small radiator system it isn't critical to have an ultra small boiler, but roughly speaking the capacity of the radiators ought to match the minimum boiler output - though this will be higher than your heat loss (smallest system boiler is 3kW min I think).</span><br />
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<span style="color: #454545; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">If you'll be having a combi, these have to be reasonably powered to heat water quickly enough for a shower - and hence have a higher minimum output too at 6-7kW - so will need more radiator capacity.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #454545; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">Then I think it is important to have good controls to control the radiator temperature, to derate the output to suit the low heat load of your house.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #454545; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">I like the rehema avanta boilers for dealing with low heating loads this way, these have either a simple room-compensating controller, or a fancy programmable thermostat, which also offers weather compensation. But having used one of these with a local builder in a passivhaus he's asked to use Worcester Bosch for the next job as they are easier to deal with for spares and servicing - and Worcester Bosch now also do boilers with "intelligent controls".</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">In the event we have gone for an Atag - but it may be some time before know whether this was a good choice or not. Hopefully we'll have moved back in and be using it for hot water in the autumn, and won't need to heat any radiators until November / December....</span><br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-4190505233142129022012-07-01T12:39:00.001-07:002012-07-01T12:39:21.421-07:00Air tightnessJust getting to start the external wall insulation took some effort - making sure holes, vents etc in the wall were blocked up (or in some cases filled with foam), and making sure key areas were reasonably air tight with <a href="http://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/page--pro-clima-airtightness-products.html" target="_blank">blue felt and blue tape</a>.<br />
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The main air tightness barrier will be on the inside - the plaster on the brick walls, and a breathable membrane in the attic room.<br />
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However, we want to achieve a pretty good level of air tightness on the outside so that air doesn't get into the insulation layer from the outside and "wick" heat away from the house.Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-6433169283337012242012-06-23T13:46:00.000-07:002012-06-23T14:01:10.825-07:00It's all go!It's been a busy couple of weeks. All of a sudden, there's a lot going on.<br />
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First the<b> <a href="http://carbonlegacy.info/" target="_blank">PV panels</a></b> appeared (but are not connected up yet). It will be interesting to see how much energy we generate and how much we use during the course of a year. The house will use more energy overall (gas + electric) than the electricity that these PVs can generate, but we are aiming to make that difference as small as possible.<br />
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Next came the insulation of the external walls, which is still in progress.<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-42567770212589494452012-06-07T14:05:00.001-07:002012-06-07T14:15:32.197-07:00Ground floor to wall junctionWe have just spent a very festive Jubilee weekend crawling around on a concrete floor in a quest to achieve air tightness and insulation at the floor-wall junction.<br />
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First, our willing helpers did a spot of cleaning (tapes don't stick well to gravel, grit and dust). Rather a lot of cleaning was required.<br />
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Then we sealed up as many holes in the brickwork as possible with off-cuts of EPS or a squirt of expanding foam.<br />
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The <a href="http://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/page--pro-clima-airtightness-tapes-options.html" target="_blank">green stuff</a> (Pro Clima DA-S) is supposed to prevent air from finding its way up the walls from below floor level (although it won't be able to do that until the walls are plastered or rendered).<br />
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And finally, the insulation up-stands which will reduce heat loss from screed to walls. All we need now is the screed...<br />
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Will it work? We should be able to answer that question once the walls are plastered and an air tightness test is carried out.<br />
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With hindsight, easier ways to achieve this spring to mind - probably using smaller quantities of materials and saving time and money.<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-55371875139719087722012-05-29T12:18:00.000-07:002012-05-29T12:22:29.483-07:00Door thresholds<div>
In a house that has been well insulated externally, the opportunities for heat loss from the house are greatly reduced. Most of the heat loss that does occur is concentrated around the weakest points, such as those locations where a non-insulating part of the structure passes through the insulation or is poorly insulated.</div>
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One tricky area where cold bridging is difficult to minimise is the door threshold. No matter how good the door (these are passive house suitable triple glazed doors called '<a href="http://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/page--ecopassiv-passivhaus-timber-windows-door.html" target="_blank">EcoPassiv</a>'), the positioning of the door and the cold bridge detailing is still critical.<br />
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We have done our best with the back door by placing it in a ply box which protrudes beyond the brickwork and into the insulation. However, it is important that the flow screed does not come into direct contact with the brick walls which are exposed at the door opening.</div>
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In this case, we removed a course of bricks and placed highly insulating Marmox thermoblocks on top instead. (These will be covered when the flow screed is poured).</div>
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The photo shows 4 grey Marmox blocks which sit directly on top of the brickwork. These will reduce heat loss from the screed into the brickwork below. On either side of the Marmox blocks, silver EPS and white external insulation can be seen. Below the slab in the foreground is a 300mm thickness of silver EPS.</div>
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Elsewhere, around the edge of every room, up-stands of insulation will form a barrier preventing heat in the screed from transferring horizontally into the brick walls and from there into the ground.</div>
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<br /></div>Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-4676231652722015612012-05-22T15:10:00.000-07:002012-05-22T15:55:30.783-07:00Which gas boiler?On the long list of decisions to make is the choice of gas boiler.<br />
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Given that hot water use will probably be higher than our heating requirements (and we are low water users to boot), we'll want a boiler that is very, very small. I'm hoping we'll be using less than 5000 kWh per year of gas in total.<br />
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A top of the price range, super-efficient boiler won't save us much, given how little gas we will use. A small and basic combi boiler at a correspondingly basic price sounds attractive right now!<br />
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Any suggestions?Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-11401685409380721032012-05-22T15:01:00.000-07:002012-05-22T15:01:40.440-07:00Air tightness and insulation coming soonThe long gap since the post about insulation below the damp proof course does not indicate a lack of activity - just my lack of interest in groundworks.<br />
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Once the groundworks are complete (and essential things like gas, electricity and water which for various reasons are being moved into the garage) we are on to the main external wall insulation and lots of air tightness work - hurray. June will be busy!<br />
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One thing to consider if embarking on a refurbishment project is that there are chickens and eggs all over the place, making life complicated and slowing things down.<br />
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For example, if the gas meter is on the external wall and you don't want to create a major thermal bridge by only insulating round it, you have to move it. But if you want to put it on the external house wall, that has to be insulated before re-instating the gas meter. So what to do in the meantime? Live without gas? Pay to disconnect and then reinstate, which costs more?<br />
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In our case, we decided to move the gas meter to the garage wall. Which would have been very simple if the garage had been in a fit state, but with the whole structure sinking badly, we decided to rebuild. Only now is the new garage wall in place to receive the gas meter. The rest of the garage can't be built until the external wall insulation is complete. So installation of the gas boiler and MVHR unit will have to wait until we have a garage roof. And so it goes on.Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-40116623944707648182012-05-18T14:41:00.001-07:002012-05-18T14:42:54.796-07:00For more detail about this project...There is more detail about this project in the 'Homes Behaving Badly' (HOBBS) report - it is the 1950's case study in section 2.3.3.<br />
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To view, <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2fTJ8MNPf4tM182T2hwdHVSeGEwUWVLdl83VFNXQQ/edit?pli=1" target="_blank">click here</a>. The report can be downloaded for free as well, and is easier to navigate via the contents page once downloaded.<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-32645214952674717382012-04-10T13:52:00.000-07:002012-04-10T13:52:06.580-07:00Insulation below dpc going onFirst boards going on...<br />
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<br />Mesh and first 2 coats of render now on, so ready for final coat.<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-51411856987521779092012-04-10T13:17:00.000-07:002012-04-10T13:17:37.348-07:00Preparations for insulation below dpcPutting external insulation below the damp proof course is rather like giving the house some very warm snow shoes. That and the insulation below the floor slab and against the walls on the inside should keep heat loss down through the walls to a minimum.<br />
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But first, preparation - using insulating foam to seal up around any holes or pipes going through the walls.<br />
And secondly, minimising cold bridging below the front and back door by removing some bricks and putting in a layer of super-insulating marmox thermoblocks.<br />
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And finally, the sticky stuff that sticks the insulation to the walls....<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-63522305367479433582012-04-06T13:36:00.001-07:002012-04-06T13:37:16.772-07:00We have a roof!The house is starting to look more like a house than a ruin now that it has a roof. The benefits of the insulation on the roof and dormer walls won't be fully appreciated until a few more windows have gone in!<br />
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Refurbishments based on passive house principles don't usually have roof lights, but we wanted a bit of extra light in the loft room. However, as roof lights go, the quadruple glazed Fakro rooflight with insulated flashing is probably as well insulated as it is possible to get. The challenge will be to make it completely air tight around the opening, and we plan to add extra insulation around the edge on the inside to minimise cold bridging.<br />
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The dormer is the first part of the external insulation work to be completed, and it's looking very smart. It took a bit of coordination and thought to get the vertical insulation to meet the roof insulation all round (battens etc. can potentially get in the way), but we think we've got it well and truly covered!<br />
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<br />Tinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08085534955443618392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803727675155409959.post-90709749577620653302012-03-15T14:58:00.000-07:002012-03-15T14:59:03.007-07:00Where would we be without expanding foam?Now I know why lots of passive houses have nice simple roofs and gable ends - it's so much easier.<br />
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Here, we have the insulation above the rafters (hiding beneath the blue felt), meeting up with the first layer of wall insulation, and overlapped by the second layer of wall insulation. And any spare space between there and the last counterbatten is filled with expanding foam.<br />
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Helps with air tightness too.<br />
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Excess foam is trimmed off and that's it.<br />
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